A couple of days ago, I shared the thrill of my exhilarating ride from Nyagatare to Rukomo. But that was only the beginning. From Rukomo Junction, I set off again, twisting the throttle toward Maya, a village tucked away about twenty kilometers before the Gatuna border post.
After leaving the tarmac, I made a well-deserved stop at Heroes View Lodge. With a steaming cup of African tea in hand, I gazed across the rolling northern hills and the endless green expanse of Mulindi’s tea plantations. It was the kind of view that makes you forget all about time.
Speaking of heroes, this area is home to the National Liberation Museum Park, Umulindi w’Intwari. Having featured it in my book Memories, I gave it a pass this time, paying my respects from afar. I will return when the museum, currently undergoing a major facelift, unveils its new look.
My next destination was Ikiraro k’Inyambo, a cultural gem in Kaniga Sector. The off-road stretch from Mulindi was a visual treat, with a winding dirt track leading through a landscape worth exploring. Along the seven-kilometer trail, I stopped twice for water breaks at irresistible viewpoints, each offering a breathtaking vistas.
Upon arrival, I took a leisurely stroll around the site, soaking up the charm of the hilltop and its peaceful surroundings. From this vantage point, I watched the highway wind toward Gatuna, cutting through the green landscape below. In the distance, the mist-covered hills of Gicumbi, Rulindo, Gakenke, Burera, Musanze, and parts of southwestern Uganda rose and fell like waves frozen in motion. On a clear day, if you are lucky, you might even spot Mount Muhabura piercing the clouds, its summit rising more than 13,000 feet above sea level.
It is remarkable how the Northern Province maintains its verdant glow even when much of the country is baking in the dry season. Over the next ten days or so, I will be riding through all five districts of this highland haven, Rwanda’s rooftop. Keep your eyes peeled. There are more places to discover, more roads to explore, and more stories to tell.