I left Kigali in the evening after a chaotic day in the city. With the wind blowing against my visor and the engine humming beneath me, I chased the fading daylight eastward. That night, I found shelter at Silent Hill Hotel in Kayonza. After a warm shower and a satisfying meal, I drifted into deep sleep, cradled by the silence of a hotel that lives up to its name.
At sunrise, I was back on the road, gliding through Kabarondo and Rwinkwavu. My destination: Nyagakonji Hill, known informally (and intriguingly) as “Qatar.” Word around here is that the Emir of Qatar, Sheikh Tamim bin Hamad Al Thani, owns land in this very area—a tale that adds just the right touch of mystery and allure to the ride.
But the journey to “Qatar” was more than a commute—it was a story in its own right, a winding ride filled with panoramic vistas, schoolchildren waving from roadside paths, and valleys echoing with the songs of distant birds. I’ll save that tale for another day.
This time, I stayed at Akagera Rhino Lodge, nestled near the southern fence of the park. After lunch and a brief nap, I finally set out on a trail that had been on my bucket list for years.
This was the “Walk the Fence Line Tour”—a little-known, seven-kilometer trek skirting the outer edge of Akagera’s southern boundary. The path is raw and never crowded, hugging the electrified fence that separates wildlife from the surrounding communities. That afternoon, I walked it in the company of a solo traveler from abroad. Together, we made our way from “Qatar” to the South Gate, trading stories and silence in equal measure.
At one point, our peaceful walk took an unexpected turn when we came across a group of primates that had seemingly leapt over the fence. It was a surprising reminder that this was no ordinary stroll. I’ll share the full story someday—there’s a fun twist to it!
When we made it to the park's gate, we walked for about ten minutes along the paved Akagera Road. Then we flagged down a passing vehicle and hitched a ride to Akagera Transit Lodge—where cold drinks felt like the ultimate reward. Refreshed, we jumped on taxi motos and zipped through Nyankora, en route to Rhino Lodge with the breeze in our faces and the thrill of the day still buzzing in our veins.
Dinner was served on the terrace, where we dined under a sky full of stars. In the distance, Lake Ihema shimmered softly in the moonlight, its calm surface blending into the night. It was the perfect ending to a day well-spent—quiet, scenic, and deeply satisfying.