I still remember the question I asked myself as we drove into Akagera National Park for the very first time in December 2019: Why did it take me two whole years of full-time travel around Rwanda to get here?
By then, I had seen so much of the country—its bustling towns, misty hills, stunning lakes—but somehow, I had never stepped foot into Rwanda’s most iconic wildlife sanctuary. Maybe it had something to do with my previous escapades across the expansive savannahs of Tanzania and Kenya. After those, perhaps I thought I already knew what to expect. But nothing prepared me for the magic that unfolded in Akagera.
We left Kigali at 5 in the morning—a small family convoy of sleepy eyes—heading east. Breakfast was served in Kayonza, a quick stop before we made the final push to the park’s South Gate. As we entered, I secretly hoped to spot animals instantly: a curious giraffe peeking through the trees, or a herd of buffalo strutting by like they owned the road.
Instead, the park greeted us with silence. No animals in sight, just the rustle of wind through the grass. We must’ve missed the early morning action, I thought. Maybe we should’ve arrived even earlier.
After checking in, permits in hand and a park map on the dashboard, we set out without a guide. The map was clear and easy to follow, and we weren’t alone—other vehicles dotted the trails ahead. Getting lost wasn’t a concern, but in hindsight, a guide would’ve added depth to the experience. If you're ever planning your visit, I highly recommend hiring one. The park has so many stories waiting to be told, and we barely scratched the surface.
The first stretch was quiet—too quiet, in fact. A few birds here, a couple of primates there, but not much else. Still, signs were everywhere. Fresh animal dung, scattered prints—it was clear something had passed through not long before us. Once again, I found myself thinking: we should’ve been here earlier.
Our patience paid off. Not long after, we encountered our first member of the Big Five—an elephant covered head to toe in mud. Elephants roll in the mud to cool off and protect their skin, and this one looked like it had just come from a spa session. It stood there for a while, calm and majestic, before slowly disappearing into the bush.
We stopped for lunch at a designated picnic area beside one of Akagera’s many lakes. I was surprised by how many water bodies are tucked into this savannah landscape. Ten lakes, I later learned, each attracting wildlife like magnets. The calm surface, the chirping of birds, the distant snort of a hippo—it was the perfect interlude.
The second half of the drive—heading north—was like stepping into a wildlife documentary. We slowed down, not just because of the bumpy road, but because there was so much to see.
Giraffes glided through the bush, graceful and unbothered. Zebras mingled like patterned puzzle pieces. Warthogs darted across the road in bursts of comic energy, and antelope herds stood posed like they were auditioning for a postcard. Every few minutes we stopped to watch, admire, and whisper "wow."
We weren’t the only ones. As we lingered longer at each sighting, a line of safari vehicles began to form behind us, each one joining the slow-moving parade of awe. It was like a catwalk in the wild, with the animals performing just for us.
By the end of the day, I was no longer asking why it had taken me two years to visit Akagera. I was just glad I finally made it. There’s something deeply humbling about being in the presence of wild creatures in their natural habitat—something grounding, something timeless.
If you’re traveling through Rwanda and thinking of skipping Akagera because you’ve “seen similar parks,” think again. No two wild spaces are the same. And Akagera, with its blend of savannah and water bodies, silence and spectacle, is absolutely worth the journey.