After a couple of days resting at Burera Beach Resort, it was time to return to Musanze, where I had left my bike. The plan was to take a taxi-motorcycle to Kidaho, near the Cyanika border post. From there, I would board a bus to Musanze.
But the plan was about to change.
The idea of walking along the shoreline to Rugarama had come up during a conversation with the resort manager the previous evening. After breakfast the following morning, I decided to go for it.
From the resort, an elaborate trail hugged Lake Burera. With my backpack strapped to my shoulders, I was perfectly comfortable. I didn't have hiking boots, but my running shoes, the only pair I had brought, served me just fine.
The scenery was spectacular. The lake, its islands and the surrounding hills provided a constantly changing panorama, with Mount Muhabura towering on the other side.
Then the trail disappeared. Perhaps it curved away from the lake. I had no interest in following it. I wanted to remain as close to the water as possible, so I simply ploughed through the vegetation. At some points, I wished I had brought a machete to clear the way.
The terrain added another layer to the adventure. There were steep climbs and descents that tested me, but I enjoyed the challenge. Whenever I needed a water break, I found a volcanic rock, sat down and enjoyed the view.
I eventually stopped at Mpinga, a campsite belonging to Suedi Murekezi, the former U.S. military serviceman whose entanglement in the Russia-Ukraine war led to his capture by Russian forces. Click here to read his story.
From Mpinga Campsite, I continued until I eventually reached the highway, where I flagged down a Musanze-bound public-transport minibus.
By the time I reached the road, I had walked more than 10 kilometers along the shores of Lake Burera. What had started as a change of plans had turned into an unexpected trek, and a much more memorable way to return to Musanze.