Rubavu Chronicles: Canoeing at Sunrise

I woke up at 5 a.m. on Saturday morning—not because I had to, but because I wanted to. You might wonder why anyone would rise that early while spending a weekend at Palm Garden Resort? Well, I didn’t go to Rubavu to sleep in; I was there to explore and indulge in exciting activities. Gliding across the calm waters of Lake Kivu at sunrise set the tone for an adventure-packed day.

There’s something magical about water bodies. That explains why people travel miles just to sink their feet into warm sand, inhale the crisp breeze, and stare out at the rhythmic dance of the waves. Sure, lounging on the beach while sipping tropical beverages is the classic holiday script—and I enjoy that, especially in the evening after an action-packed day—but for me, the real thrill lies in moving with the water. Canoeing does the trick every time.

People often confuse canoeing with kayaking, and I get it—they’re cousins in the family of watercraft. But while kayaks are sleek vessels steered with double-bladed paddles, often enclosed or inflatable, canoes are usually open and paddled with a single blade. Enter paddle boarding—a modern hybrid of the two—that you can do sitting, kneeling, or standing. All three offer a full-body workout and the kind of cardio that sneaks up on you behind a veil of fun.

That morning, I wasn’t alone in the canoe. I shared it with my instructor, Augustin Muhawenimana, whose calm expertise made the experience both safe and even more memorable. Together, we paddled past Akeza Island, which truly lives up to its name—it felt like stepping onto a little slice of heaven. The atmosphere there is pure enchantment, dreamlike and untouched. I didn’t stay long, but long enough to scribble a new line on my bucket list: camping on Akeza Island.

Later, I docked at a more haunting place—Akarwa k’Abakobwa, the “Girls’ Island.” This is where, in a less forgiving past, girls who became pregnant outside of marriage were abandoned, exiled by their own families. They were left alone until men from across the lake, the Abashi, came to claim them—rescue cloaked in coercion, often ending in forced marriages. Standing there, I could feel the weight of forgotten sorrow in the air.

Canoeing at sunrise around Rubavu’s picturesque islands wasn’t just a morning activity. It was a journey through beauty, history, and emotion. And as the sun rose over the lake—spilling gold across its glassy surface—I knew I had started my day the best way possible.