Ngoma to Bugesera: Fresh Tarmac Winding Through a Cluster of Lakes

I left Ngoma at 3:30 in the afternoon. My destination was Bugesera. The last time I had taken the Ngoma–Bugesera road, construction had just begun. Back then, I ploughed through stretches of machinery and dust along the way. But most of the passage was still a raw, untamed trail that gave me unforgettable off-roading experiences.

Now, I couldn’t help but wonder how much had changed. Would I find a flawless ribbon of fresh tarmac stretching effortlessly toward Bugesera, or would I once again navigate the long, bone-rattling stretches of dirt and gravel? That curiosity gripped me as I twisted the throttle, riding eagerly into the unknown.

There are a few parts which are still under construction—earth-moving machines rumbling in the distance, hills being sliced open, and neat piles of gravel waiting their turn to be spread across the surface. But most of the road is now a sleek ribbon of brand-new tarmac.

Gliding on this polished surface was simply indulgent. The tires whispered against the flawless engineering marvel. The road’s silky smoothness tempted me to ease open the throttle, and I leaned effortlessly into each gentle curve with practiced precision.

Ngoma - Bugesera road

"Yes, I’m an off-road guy through and through—highways usually bore me—but I have to admit, this road is taking shape in a way that demands respect. Its flawless tarmac seems to stretch endlessly, winding through the landscape like it was designed for pure joy. Each curve feels deliberate, each rise and dip perfectly balanced, making it impossible not to revel in the ride."

My first water break was on the peaceful shores of Lake Sake. But before getting there, I was almost lured into a detour by one of Lake Mugesera’s intriguing offshoots. This uniquely shaped water body stretches its fingers deep into the land, weaving across parts of Rwamagana and Ngoma, with some branches reaching tantalizingly close to Bugesera and Kayonza.

The thought of exploring one of those hidden waterways tugged at me, but the road ahead was calling. I pressed on, promising myself to return one day and see where those winding silver fingers might lead.

From Lake Sake, I twisted the throttle and made my way to the Akagera River—part of the vast network of waterways that form the upper headwaters of the Nile. Standing on the bridge, I paused, letting the bike’s engine tick quietly as I gazed at the steady stream below.

Lake Sake

There was something mysterious about it. The water flowing beneath me wasn’t from a single source; it was a convergence, a gathering of countless journeys. I tried to recall the rivers I’d encountered on previous tours that fed this mighty system: Mbirurume, Mwogo, Nyabarongo, Mukungwa, Nyabugogo, and Kanyaru. Each name carried a story, each current weaving its way into this greater flow, destined for distant places I could only imagine.

After crossing the bridge, I rode on to the Ramiro Junction and curved down toward Nyamata. The road opened up to sweeping views, and along the way, I caught a clear glimpse of Lake Rumira and Lake Mirayi shimmering in the distance.

If time had been on my side, I would have gladly taken a few detours to get closer to the other lakes scattered across the landscape. But even from afar, their beauty was undeniable. This truly is the land of lakes.

By the time I rolled into Nyamata, the sun was already dipping low, casting a golden glow over the hills and lakes I had just passed. The Ngoma–Bugesera road, once a rugged trail I knew so well, had transformed into a journey of contrasts—brand-new tarmac blending with pockets of raw, unfinished terrain.

Akagera River

For an off-road rider like me, the rough patches still held a certain thrill, but I couldn’t deny the satisfaction of cruising effortlessly over the new tarmac. More than just a route, this road felt like a story in motion—one of progress, connection, and discovery.

As I parked the bike and removed my helmet, I realized I’d uncovered more than just a shortcut. I’d found another reminder that the best rides aren’t only about where they take you, but what they reveal along the way.