The Congo Nile Trail is full of little surprises. On this particular day, my journey took me from Inzu Lodge in Rubavu all the way to Cyimbiri Guest House, tucked away in Kigeyo Sector of Rutsiro District. The trail had already given me plenty to marvel at—rolling hills, curious children waving from the roadside, and that irresistible feeling of poking my nose into other people’s affairs just to see what life in rural Rwanda looks like up close. But none of those moments prepared me for my encounter with Jean Paul. Or as his friends (and now I) call him—JP.
JP is not your average fisherman. Forget the usual image of a thatched house on the hillside overlooking Lake Kivu. This man went a step further. He built his house on the lake. Yes, floating—like a stubborn water lily with a roof. If houses could brag, JP’s would probably look down (or is it look across?) at all the land-based houses and say, “Nice try, fellas, but I’ve literally leveled up.”
Naturally, I had to stop and see what life on water looked like. To my surprise, JP was as calm as the lake itself, welcoming me like an old friend. His fishing methods were as intriguing as his lifestyle. You see, I once attempted to join a fishing crew on Lake Kivu during a previous trip. That adventure ended in what I like to call “half a night of bravery,” after which I decided my talents were better suited for storytelling than fishing. JP, on the other hand, has turned fishing into an art form.
His secret? Always having his traps set. Every single day, he heads out to check them, collecting whatever the lake has to offer. Some days, the haul is generous, enough to make you believe the fish were volunteering. Other days, it’s lean—just enough to keep the dream afloat. But JP doesn’t complain. He simply shrugs, smiles, and accepts the lake’s moods as part of the deal.
As I listened to JP talk about life on Lake Kivu, I couldn’t help but admire the audacity of it all. Imagine waking up to water lapping at your doorstep, with sunrises and sunsets that would make postcards jealous.
By the time I said goodbye, I realized JP’s story wasn’t just about fishing. It was about embracing an unconventional life, finding rhythm in unpredictability, and making peace with nature’s terms. The Congo Nile Trail may have led me there, but it was JP who gave me a glimpse into a world where life floats—literally—between struggle and serenity.
JP’s floating world reminded me that travel isn’t just about following strict itineraries—it’s about being flexible enough to learn how life can ripple gently like the waves beneath his home. Witnessing firsthand how he embraces uncertainty and finds balance in unpredictable waters was truly fascinating.