Lake Mirayi is beautiful, but it is not one of my playgrounds. On lakes such as Kivu, Muhazi or Ruhondo, I may be tempted to kayak, try a paddleboard or test my balance until gravity eventually sends me into the water. Lake Mirayi inspires a different kind of confidence. The kind that keeps you seated, alert and very respectful of the creatures sharing the water with you.
The reason is simple: hippos. There are so many of them that the place sometimes feels like a breeding ground. Some float quietly with only their eyes, ears and nostrils above the surface, looking as if they are taking an afternoon nap. Others suddenly rise from the water and open their enormous mouths, just in case anyone has forgotten who owns the place.
Luckily, I was aboard a sturdy modern vessel belonging to Bugesera Lake Resort. From the safety of the boat, I watched local fishermen paddle their small wooden dugout canoes across the lake, going about their business with remarkable calm. They seemed to understand the hippos well and had learned to coexist with them over time. I still wondered how safe they truly were. Watching those narrow canoes glide past such powerful animals sent chills down my spine.
My boat was luxurious, but I was not there simply to sit back and enjoy the view. The engine had been switched off, and we were propelling the vessel using bicycle-like pedals fitted beneath the seats. It was exercise, transport and sightseeing rolled into one floating experience.
Pedalling a boat at sunset sounds peaceful, and for the most part, it was. The sun cast a golden path across the water while dark clouds gathered above us, turning the sky into a dramatic painting. Each push of the pedals moved us gently forward. It felt healthy and environmentally friendly, although the nearby hippos provided more motivation than any fitness instructor could have managed.
Sharing a lake with hippos is both exciting and frightening. They spend much of the day in water to stay cool and can remain submerged for several minutes. This means one can disappear beneath the surface and leave you wondering where it will appear next. On Lake Mirayi, every ripple deserves a second look.
By the time the sun sank toward the horizon, I had found a new way to enjoy the lake. There was no kayaking, no paddleboard and absolutely no accidental swimming. I remained safely aboard, pedalling through one of Bugesera’s most beautiful landscapes while the hippos watched from their natural playground.