The day began with a sense of quiet adventure as I stepped onto the boat at Golf Eden Rock Hotel's private beach. The lake lay calm, glistening in the morning light, inviting us to trace its shoreline and uncover its hidden wonders.
As we cruised past the arboretum, its lush greenery immediately caught my eye. I made a mental note to explore it properly on my next visit to Karongi — simply admiring it from a distance wouldn’t quench my curiosity. To truly experience this sanctuary, I would need to step onto its trail, let the forest swallow me, and discover the stories whispered by its exotic and indigenous trees up close. Even from afar, though, the arboretum added a vibrant ribbon of green to the lake’s already stunning panorama.
Our first stopover was Amahoro Island, a serene slice of paradise that promised both tranquility and discovery. After docking, I set out on a leisurely walk along the narrow trail that forms a ring around the island, offering a 360° view of the lake, surrounding islands, and Karongi’s jagged shoreline. With each step, I felt more connected to this magical creation, marveling at how the sunlight danced on the water and the gentle rustle of leaves filled the air.
Amahoro is perfectly suited for a variety of experiences — from barbecues and camping, to birdwatching among the trees, or simply strolling along its scenic trail as I did. Even in the quiet moments of my walk, the island exuded a sense of peace, living up to its name and leaving an impression that lingered long after I returned to the boat.
The pace quickened at our next stop, Nyamunini Island, also known as Napoleon’s Hill. Unlike Amahoro, Nyamunini rose steeply from the water, daring me to lace up my hiking boots. I accepted the challenge, and the climb rewarded me with an unparalleled view — the lake, its islands, and the undulating hills of Karongi laid out like a living postcard beneath the endless sky.
After leaving Nyamunini Island, we let the boat drift for a while. At some point, we switched off the engine and spent about 15 minutes simply floating, carried gently by the wind. I love moments like these — when there’s no rush, no hum of machinery, just the lake, the breeze, and the quiet rhythm of nature. Being in a free-flowing vessel like that reconnects me with the lake’s pulse, and I savor the sense of unbounded freedom it brings.
When we fired up the engine once again, we sailed back toward the mainland before turning northward. The navigation was anything but a straight line. Lake Kivu teased us with peninsulas jutting boldly into the water and narrow inlets sneaking deep into the land, creating a playful dance between shoreline and lake. Our boat curved into every outstretched cove, and every turn revealed a new postcard view.
This stretch of shoreline is a blossoming hospitality scene. Cormoran Lodge clung dramatically to a hillside, Amazi Land pulsed with vibrant energy, and Umurobyi Lodge stole the show — striking in its design and presence, it stood proudly in a quiet cove, impossible to miss even from a distance. Further along, the elegant Cleo Lake Kivu Hotel rose proudly above the water, while Château le Marara and Home Saint Jean added their own charm to the mosaic of lakeside stays.
We sailed on until the lake met the foot of the Kivu Belt Road, where asphalt and shoreline brushed shoulders. There, we made a wide U-turn and began our journey back. By the time we returned to the beach, I knew I had witnessed first-hand the transformation of this strip into a tourism hotspot.
Sitting by the shore, I thought of the gentle waves: the whispers of the arboretum, the peaceful nature of Amahoro, the view from Nyamunini's peak, the postcard-perfect turns of the shoreline, and the blend of tradition and modernity etched into every cove. Lake Kivu had given me not just a boat ride, but a journey through contrasts — timeless nature and emerging luxury, stillness and transformation. And as I watched the last light ripple across the lake, I knew I hadn’t just seen Karongi. I had felt it.