From Akagera National Park to the Twin Lakes via Nyagatare

I exited Akagera National Park at 3 p.m. From the North Gate, my route stretched through Nyagatare toward the Northern Province—destination: Lake Burera.

Initially, I had planned to stop for a late lunch or a quick refreshment at Mantis EPIC Hotel. But as the afternoon wore on, I decided to keep going. The thought of reaching the lake before dusk was more appealing than any fancy meal. Besides, I had been snacking and hydrating along the way—there was no hunger, just momentum.

The road from Nyagatare to Gicumbi and beyond unfolded like a painter’s canvas. Rolling hills rose and fell in perfect rhythm, their slopes dotted with farms and villages. The grandeur of this northern terrain—lush, sculpted, endlessly photogenic—reminded me why Rwanda is called the Land of a Thousand Hills.

I had intended to take a shortcut to Burera, but locals warned that the route was under construction. By then, twilight had already swallowed the hills. To be safe, I opted for the longer, better-lit route—through Base and Musanze. From Musanze, I drove toward Cyanika but veered off the tarmac at Rugarama Market.

^{I slept in a safari tent}

The trail to the lake was rough, scattered with volcanic rocks—bumpy, but beautiful in that raw, untamed way that makes road trips in Rwanda unforgettable. A short boat ride later, I found myself on the island. I barely had energy left. After a quick shower and a warm dinner, I surrendered to sleep the moment my head touched the pillow.

That night, I slept in a safari tent. At dawn, I unzipped the canvas flap and froze for a moment—stunned by what lay before me: Lake Burera shimmering in the morning light, ringed by emerald hills and overlooked by Mount Muhabura, one of the five volcanoes that guard Rwanda’s northwestern frontier.

The day’s only plan was an easy hike around the island’s crest. The trail offered a 360° view of the lake, the neighboring islands, the surrounding hills, and even a glimpse of southwestern Uganda beyond the water.

After the hike, I returned for breakfast, packed up, and caught the boat back to the mainland. A mechanical hiccup and a brief transaction at the Cyanika border post delayed me slightly, but shortly thereafter, I was on my way again—heading toward downtown Musanze, and from there, to the northern tip of Lake Kivu.

^{The trail offered a 360° view of the lake, the neighboring islands, the surrounding hills, and even a glimpse of southwestern Uganda beyond the water.}

To be continued…