Coast-Bound: En Route to Mombasa
I bought my train ticket about a week before departure. Even then, the first-class coaches on the Madaraka Express were already sold out—a clear sign of the holiday frenzy. Luckily, I managed to grab one of the last remaining economy seats. Not ideal, I thought at the time—but good enough to get me to the coast.
When I finally boarded, my expectations were quickly recalibrated. Economy class on the Madaraka Express isn’t bad at all. In fact, it’s refreshingly decent: the cabin was clean, the ventilation crisp, and the seats comfortable enough for a five-hour journey. There was plenty of legroom and the wide windows offered panoramic views just begging to be admired.
My train was scheduled to depart at 3:00 p.m., but I found myself at the Nairobi Terminus a whole four hours early. Not out of anxious over-preparation. I had hitched a ride with a group of travelers who had a 10:30 a.m. check-in at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport. After dropping them off, their driver swung by the nearby SGR station and left me at the gate of this sleek, ultra-modern facility.
My train was scheduled to depart at 3:00 p.m., but I found myself at the Nairobi Terminus a whole four hours early.
I printed my ticket from one of the high-tech dispensers—modern machines that spit out boarding passes with a quick scan of a QR code. Check-in wouldn’t open until 12:30 p.m., which gave me a perfect window to catch up on some work. I made my way to the upper level where a modest café offered a view of the concourse below. With a mug of strong Kenyan coffee in hand and my laptop open, I dove into the creation of a booklet titled Nairobi: Green City in the Sun, slated to be released by Afrika Nzuri Publishers whenever it's ready—no deadline, no pressure.
When it was finally time to board, I joined a slow-moving stream of passengers winding through security checks and down to the platform. As the train pulled out of the station and glided into the open countryside, I felt that familiar thrill of departure—the quiet joy of being carried away by the promise of new horizons.
The journey from Nairobi to Mombasa is nothing short of cinematic. The train slices through Kenya’s living geography, from the industrial edges of Athi River to the arid plains near Emali and Kibwezi, down to the lush expanses of Mtito Andei and the palm-dotted stretches near Mariakani. Each town we passed offered a fleeting glimpse into a different pace of life—markets, schoolyards, goat herds, distant hills.
When I finally boarded, my expectations were quickly recalibrated. Economy class on the Madaraka Express isn’t bad at all.
I had been hoping to spot some animals while passing through Nairobi National Park, shortly after departure. But just as the carriages curved into the green edge of the park, I was glued to my screen, stuck in a virtual meeting. In hindsight, I should’ve skipped that session. It wasn't worth it.
But redemption came further down the line. Somewhere between Mtito Andei and Voi, as the train entered the vast wilderness of Tsavo National Park, I caught sight of a small group of warthogs grazing near the tracks. They stood still for a moment, as if posing for the passengers lucky enough to look up. Seeing wild animals from the comfort of a train seat felt surreal—a quiet reminder of how Kenya balances infrastructure and nature.
As darkness enveloped the landscape and the air grew thicker with coastal humidity, we rolled into Mombasa. My adventures in this vibrant, coastal city is a story for another day. Meanwhile, my journey continues.
Next stop: Tanga. A laid-back town tucked into the northeastern coast of Tanzania, where the air smells like the ocean and time seems to move just a little slower. It’s a place known for its easygoing charm, colonial echoes, and sun-faded beauty. Usually, what happens in Tanga stays in Tanga. But that rule doesn't apply to me. What transpires during my sojourn in Tanga will be thrown onto the vast expanse of the World Wide Web—raw and unfiltered. Stay tuned.
As darkness enveloped the landscape and the air grew thicker with coastal humidity, we rolled into Mombasa.