Entering Kamonyi, I couldn’t believe the 30 Districts Expedition was finally coming to an end. This tour had lived in my mind for years, and it took seven years of building a network in Rwanda’s tourism industry before I could make it happen without spending my own money. The journey from Muhanga to Kamonyi felt like the last stretch of a marathon I had been preparing for my entire life.
My first stop in Kamonyi was Mashyiga Rocks, found in Karama Sector. The rocks rise dramatically from the green landscape, and the moment I laid eyes on them, I felt a mix of awe and reflection. Hiking the trail up, I felt the air grow cleaner, scented faintly with eucalyptus. I paused on one of the benches placed atop the rocks. From there, the view was spectacular—Kamonyi stretched beneath me, serene and timeless.
The rocks derived their from a Kinyarwanda word amashyiga, the three stones traditionally used to hold a cooking pot. Just like those stones, the rocks stand together as a team, fulfilling a common goal. I couldn’t help but picture my grandmother’s kitchen, where the fire burned between three stones, each one essential to the task at hand.
Yet, Mashyiga Rocks are not only a symbol of unity—they are steeped in history. Once, two wives of King Yuhi III Mazimpaka, Queens Kiranga and Cyihunde, were burned alive here after being found guilty of conspiring with King Nsoro III Nyabarega of Bugesera. Standing there, I could almost feel the weight of those ancient judgments, a sobering contrast to the beauty around me.
As I lingered, I struck up a conversation with the security guard, who revealed yet more secrets. He led me to the surface where King Ruganzu II Ndoli used to play Igisoro, a traditional Rwandan game akin to mancala. Unlike modern boards, the pits are dug directly into the rock, and remarkably, they are still playable today. You can trace the grooves with your fingers, imagining the King plotting his strategy centuries ago.
Mashyiga is not only a haven for history lovers—it is a spiritual sanctuary. I wasn’t the only visitor climbing the rocks. Locals and travelers alike come to meditate and connect with their Maker, speaking in Kinyarwanda, Swahili, English, French, and sometimes even gibberish. Nyirashimimana Emmeliene, a resident of Rukoma Sector, told me, “This is my pilgrimage site. The tranquility and peace of mind I feel here draw me closer to God.”
Sitting on that bench, taking in the view, the history, and the quiet devotion of others, I felt a deep sense of completion. Mashyiga Rocks were not just the first stop of the last district—they were a reminder of the layers of culture, history, and human connection that make Rwanda so extraordinary.
After spending time at Mashyiga Rocks, soaking in the view, the history, and the spiritual energy, I knew there was still more of Kamonyi to explore. This stop had been a remarkable reminder of Rwanda’s layers of culture and history, but the district still had a few more stories to tell before I would finally make my way back to Kigali. Mashyiga had set the tone—a perfect blend of natural beauty, human connection, and living history—but the expedition wasn’t quite over yet.